Evolution of Random Wave Fields in the Water of Finite Depth
نویسنده
چکیده
The evolution of random wave fields on the free surface is a complex process which is not completely understood nowadays. For the sake of simplicity in this study we will restrict our attention to the 2D physical problems only (i.e. 1D wave propagation). However, the full Euler equations are solved numerically in order to predict the wave field dynamics. We will consider the most studied deep water case along with several finite depths (from deep to shallow waters) to make a comparison. For each depth we will perform a series of Monte–Carlo runs of random initial conditions in order to deduce some statistical properties of an average sea state.
منابع مشابه
The Deterministic Generation of Extreme Surface Water Waves Based on Soliton on Finite Background in Laboratory
This paper aims to describe a deterministic generation of extreme waves in a typical towing tank. Such a generation involves an input signal to be provided at the wave maker in such a way that at a certain position in the wave tank, say at a position of a tested object, a large amplitude wave emerges. For the purpose, we consider a model called a spatial-NLS describing the spatial propagation o...
متن کاملSTABILITY ANALYSIS FROM FOURTH ORDER NONLINEAR EVOLUTION EQUATIONS FOR TWO CAPILLARY GRAVITY WAVE PACKETS IN THE PRESENCE OF WIND OWING OVER WATER.
Asymptotically exact and nonlocal fourth order nonlinear evolution equations are derived for two coupled fourth order nonlinear evolution equations have been derived in deep water for two capillary-gravity wave packets propagating in the same direction in the presence of wind flowing over water.We have used a general method, based on Zakharov integral equation.On the basis of these evolution eq...
متن کاملEFFECT OF COUNTERPROPAGATING CAPILLARY GRAVITY WAVE PACKETS ON THIRD ORDER NONLINEAR EVOLUTION EQUATIONS IN THE PRESENCE OF WIND FLOWING OVER WATER
Asymptotically exact and nonlocal third order nonlinear evolution equations are derivedfor two counterpropagating surface capillary gravity wave packets in deep water in thepresence of wind flowing over water.From these evolution equations stability analysis ismade for a uniform standing surface capillary gravity wave trains for longitudinal perturbation. Instability condition is obtained and g...
متن کاملاستفاده از روش جداسازی متغیرها برای مطالعه موج شکن شناور
In this article, a rectangular cross section breakwater in water of finite depth and infinite domain is studied using the separation of the variables method in regular, sinusoidal waves. Determining the radiation potentials in three degrees of freedom e.g. sway, heave and roll, added mass and damping coefficients of sway, heave and roll motions is obtained. Diffraction problem is solved accordi...
متن کاملWave Evolution in Water Bodies using Turbulent MPS Simulation
Moving Particle Semi-implicit (MPS) which is a meshless and full Lagrangian method is employed to simulate nonlinear hydrodynamic behavior in a wide variety of engineering application including free surface water waves. In the present study, a numerical particle-based model is developed by the authors using MPS method to simulate different wave problems in the coastal waters. In this model flui...
متن کامل